Multi-pitch climbing route " Bise Matheysine ".

Visitor alert

Caution: you are entering a rich and fragile area. On the way up, do not persist if you suspect birds of prey may be nesting. On the way down, avoid creating parallel trails. Climbers are asked to avoid this area during the hunting season (autumn). Let's avoid conflict and respect their activity, and they will respect ours.

Description

Climbing site with 8 pitches and a maximum grade of 6b+.
Don't forget to bring a 100 m rope and 14 quickdraws.

Site information:
- The route is closed during hunting season (autumn).
- The route is equipped, but the gneiss is raw and unpolished.

Route information:
Approach: 1h30.
From the parking lot, no visible trail. Ascend by sight on the left bank of the Rines stream, following a clear ridge and then through the Bois des Essarts forest to reach a large scree slope. Ascend the scree on its left-hand side (as you go up) to reach the base of the Chamoissière tower. The route starts at the far left of the face.

Climbing time: Between 3 and 6 hours.
L1: 6a – Climb straight up, then traverse leftward.
L2: 6a+ – Up, then slightly left, and back right toward a pine tree. Belay 5m above the pine.
L3: 5c – 5c then easier (5a).
L4: 5b/c – Head left onto the face. Belay at the top of the shoulder.
L5: 4 – Downclimb 3m using fixed slings, then traverse (grade 4) to a belay in a hidden notch behind a tree.
L6: 6a+ – Straight up. Belay on the right.
L7: 6b > 5b A0 – Overhang.
L8: 6a/b

Descent: Rappel required.
Rap 1: From R8
Rap 2: From belay 10m below R7
Rap 3: From R5 – go 20m straight down, then descend diagonally right.
Raps 4 to 6: From R3 to R1 of Mille millions de mille Tabor.

Bibliography / Online references:
Belledonne Escalade – Lionel Tassan – 2010

Route history:
Opened and bolted from the ground by Stanislas De Closmadeuc and Nicolas Arthaud on September 4–6, 2007.
Bolts and hangers funded by CAF La Mure Matheysine.

Rates

Free access.

Opening date

From 04/01 to 09/01.
Depending on snow conditions and hunting season

Equipments

  •  Restaurant
  •  Car park
  •  Public WC
  •  Accommodation
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